Wow! How pleasant it is to come home to the wafting. flavorful aromas of a soup...waiting just for you. Doris Gray, whose kitchen always smells inviting, shared this recipe with me. She cooks it long and luxuriously in her soup pot on the stove. I offer a crockpot version.

All-Day Beef Stew

1 pound chuck roast, cubed and slightly browned

2 medium skins-on potatoes, quartered and cubed

4 large carrots, peeled and sliced

1/2 pound fresh green beans

1 cup corn

1 cup baby peas

1 large yellow onion, quartered and sliced

2 pods garlic, split

2 bay leaves

salt and pepper to taste

water or broth

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

Layer all ingredients except the flour in order in a crock pot and add enough water or broth to rise 2 inches above ingredients. Turn on medium-low before you leave the house. It will be just about ready for supper when you return 6-8 hours later. Extract 1 cup of the broth into a bowl and whisk in the flour. Return to the crock, stir and let cook another 30-50 minutes. Stir again before serving.

Serves 6-8

cubing meat,

browning meat,

washing produce,

quartering potatoes,

peeling carrots and potatoes,

slicing vegetables,

preparing green beans,

peeling an onion,

peeling garlic,

measuring dry ingredients,

salt and pepper to taste,

measuring liquid ingredients,

using a crock pot,

whisking ingredients,

This is an "idea recipe". Once you get the idea, you can substitute all kinds of favorite things. Try chicken with thyme, pork with rosemary or just plain vegetables.

 

 

Black Bean Chili has been served every day since Greens opened in 1979. It has a woodsy campfire quality and a complexity of tastes from the various smoked and roasted chilies. In addition to serving these beans as chili, we also use them as an ingredient in the Black Bean Chilaquiles.

Black Bean Chili

2 cups black turtle beans, soaked overnight

1 bay leaf

4 teaspoons cumin seeds

4 teaspoons dried oregano leaves

4 teaspoons paprika

1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1 chili negro or ancho chili, for chili powder, or 2 to 3 tablespoons chili powder

3 tablespoons corn or peanut oil

3 medium yellow onions, diced into 1/4-inch squares

4 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 1/2 pounds ripe or canned tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped; juice reserved

1 to 2 teaspoons chopped chilpotle chili

about 1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar

4 tablespoons cilantro, chopped

Garnishes:

1/2 to 3/4 cup muenster cheese, grated

green chilies: 2 poblano or Anahein, roasted, peeled, and diced, or 2 ounces canned green chilies, rinsed well and diced

1/2 cup crème fraîche or sour cream

6 sprigs cilantro

Sort through the beans and remove any small stones. Rinse them well, cover them generously with water, and let them soak overnight. Next day, drain the beans, cover them with fresh water by a couple of inches, and bring them to a boil with the bay leaf. Lower the heat and let the beans simmer while you prepare the rest of the ingredients. Heat a small heavy skillet over medium heat. Add the cumin seeds, and when they begin to color, add the oregano leaves, shaking the pan frequently so the herbs don’t scorch. As soon as the fragrance is strong and robust, remove the pan from the heat and add the paprika and the cayenne. They only need a few seconds to toast. Grind in a mortar or a spice mill to make a coarse powder. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. To make the chili powder, put the dried chili in the oven for 3 to 5 minutes to dry it out. Cool it briefly; then remove the stem, seeds, and veins. Tear the pod into small pieces and grind it into a powder in the blender or spice mill. Heat the oil in a large skillet, and sauté the onions over medium heat until they soften. Add the garlic, salt, and the ground herbs and chili powder, and cook another 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes, their juice, and about 1 teaspoon of the chilpotle chili. Simmer everything together for 15 minutes; then add this mixture to the beans, and, if necessary, enough water so the beans are covered by a least 1 inch. Continue cooking the beans slowly until they are soft, an hour or longer, or pressure cook them for 30 minutes at 15 pounds’ pressure. Keep an eye on the water level and add more, if needed, to keep the beans amply covered. When the beans are cooked, taste them, and add more chilpotle chili if desired. Season to taste with the vinegar, additional salt if needed, and the chopped cilantro. Prepare the garnishes. If you are using fresh green chilies, roast them over the flame until they are evenly charred. Let them steam 10 minutes in a bowl covered with a dish; then scrape off the skins, discard the seeds, and dice. Serve the chili ladled over a large spoonful of grated cheese, and garnish it with the crème fraîche or sour cream, the green chilies, and a sprig of fresh cilantro.

Makes 8 cups

Though served in a bowl and eaten with a spoon, this chili is a great deal thicker than most soups - thick enough in fact to be served on a plate right alongside fritters or cornbread. It also, however, can be thinned considerably with stock, water, or tomato juice, to make a much thinner but still very flavorful black bean soup. When thinned to make soup, it can be served as part of a meal rather than a meal in itself. It is worth making double the amount and freezing half to have it available to use in other recipes.

From THE GREENS COOKBOOK by Deborah Madison and Edward Espe Brown. Copyright ©1987 by Edward Espe Brown and Deborah Madison. Used by permission of Bantam Books, a division of Bantam Doubleday Dell Publishing Group, Inc.

sorting and soaking beans,

measuring dry ingredients,

roasting chiles,

measuring liquid ingredients,

peeling an onion,

dicing vegetables,

peeling garlic,

chopping vegetables,

peeling tomatoes,

using a mortar,

calibrating the oven,

setting the timer,

sautéing vegetables,

simmering ingredients,

adding water to soups,

finding the spoon in the pot,

 

To make a wholesome chicken stock, long cooking is a fundamental requirement. For this reason, we prepare stock in large quantities when time is available. This recipe is for the minimum amount we would make. For the chicken parts, we usually use raw scrap pieces we have kept frozen over several months and, if we do not have enough, chicken backs are inexpensive to purchase. You may use the gizzards and hearts, but not the livers, as they will give an "off" taste.

Chicken Stock

3 pounds raw chicken parts such as backs, necks, and gizzards

4 quarts cold water

3/4 pound carrots

1/2 pound leeks or 1/2 pound onions

3 large celery stalks

1 large, imported bay leaf

1 teaspoon wild thyme

1/2 teaspoon whole black peppercorns

3 or 4 large sprigs parsley with their stems

1 teaspoon salt

3 cloves garlic, unpeeled

1/2 cup dry white wine or vermouth

In a large pot with a 1-gallon capacity, place the chicken parts. Cover with the cold water and bring just to a simmer. Only partially cover, so that the scum and fats will rise to the surface. Do not allow the stock to boil at any time and never stir during the entire cooking time. Boiling or stirring will cause the fats to break down, resulting in a cloudy stock. Using cold water to begin the stock also works as an aid against clouding. When the water comes to a simmer, begin skimming all the unpleasant-looking scum from the surface. This will take about 15 minutes. As you remove the scum, replace it with the same amount of cold water.

Meanwhile, prepare the vegetables and aromatics. With a vegetable peeler, scrape the carrots and cut them into 1-inch pieces. Cut the leeks in half lengthwise and wash thoroughly. Cut them into 1-inch pieces. If using onions, peel and quarter them. Wash the celery stalks and cut them into 1-inch pieces. Tie the bay leaf, wild thyme, peppercorns, and parsley in a small piece of cheese cloth.

When the simmering liquid has been completely cleansed of scum, add the vegetables, the aromatics tied in cheesecloth, the salt, the unpeeled garlic, and the wine. Be cautious about the amount of salt. Since the stock reduces while cooking, it could become too salty. Again, do not stir, but press the solids down into the simmering liquid. Watch the heat and bring the ingredients back to a simmer. Partially cover and simmer for 4 hours. Extend the cooking time if you are making a larger amount.

During this time, periodically check the stock and skim any scum from the surface. Press down on the solids from time to time to release their flavors. When the stock has cooked for 4 hours, strain it through a colander lined with cheesecloth into a large bowl. Press down on the solids so they will give up their liquids. Cool as quickly as possible and either refrigerate or freeze. The stock will keep for 3 or 4 days refrigerated and for 3 or 4 months frozen. If freezing, leave 1 1/2-inch headspace in the container for expansion. Do not throw away the vegetables or the meat from the chicken. If you do not wish to eat them, carefully go over them,, removing all bones, and give the vegetables and meat to a favorite dog or cat., mixed with their regular food. The leftover are a treat.

Makes 3 1/2 quarts

When making our stock, we use the Graniteware Blancher, sometimes called the Everything Pot, as it is handy for straining the stock. Just remove the fitted colander from the pot and set it over a large bowl to drain. All the solids remain in the colander. For a clearer stock, you may wish to strain the liquid through cheesecloth later.

Reprinted from Country Gourmet Cookbook by Sherrill and Gil Roth. Copyright ©1981, 1984 by Sherrill and Gil Roth. Reprinted by permission of Workman Publishing Company, Inc. All rights reserved.

making a soup stock,

measuring liquid ingredients,

peeling carrots and potatoes,

preparing leeks,

peeling celery,

slicing vegetables,

measuring dry ingredients,

washing produce,

adding water to soups,

setting the timer,

skimming ingredients,

straining ingredients,

 

 

Chowders knock the chill off an October's evening. This one is easy to prepare.

Clam Chowder

2 7-ounce cans minced clams

3 or 4 medium potatoes, cubed with peelings on

1 large yellow onion, chopped

2 slices salt pork or bacon, chopped fine and lightly browned

2 tablespoons butter

salt and pepper to taste

2 cups of rich milk or half-and-half

Cook potatoes, onion and salt pork (or bacon) in enough water to cover. When potatoes are tender to a fork, drain clams and add clam liquor to the potato mixture. Simmer for a few minutes longer. Then add clams, milk (or half-and-half) and seasonings. Taste before adding salt. Simmer until desired thickness is reached, but do not let the chowder come to a boil. Add butter just before serving.

Serves 4-6

If your tastes or doctor's orders run to less fat, use lowfat milk and omit the butter. Use pork with fat trimmed.

opening cans,

cubing vegetables,

peeling an onion,

chopping vegetables,

measuring butter/margarine,

salt and pepper to taste,

liquid ingredients,

simmering ingredients,

draining ingredients,

finding the spoon in the pot,

 

 

For summer, this cold soup is incomparable. Even though this recipe has been a staple in our summer cooking for many years, it never fails to invigorate us.

Cold Cucumber Soup With Garlic and Dill

8 unwaxed, pickling type cucumbers, about 3 1/2 inches long

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 cups homemade yogurt

1 teaspoon finely minced garlic

1 cup Chicken Stock, chilled

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper

4 tablespoons cucumber dice reserved for garnish

2 tablespoons minced dill, coriander, or chives for garnish

Wash the cucumbers. Remove the ends, but do not peel them. Quarter the cucumbers lengthwise and remove the seeds if they are large; if the seeds are very tiny, there is no need to remove them. Chop the strips of cucumber into dice no larger than 1/4 inch. Place the dice in a colander or sieve, sprinkle with the salt, and toss. Let the cucumbers drain for 1/2 hour, tossing occasionally. This will draw excess moisture and any bitterness from the cucumbers.

Combine the yogurt, garlic, and chicken stock in a medium-sized bowl. Whisk so that the yogurt and stock are thoroughly blended. When the cucumbers have drained, squeeze them gently between paper towels to dry. Fold them, along with the white pepper, into the liquid mixture, reserving 4 tablespoons for garnishing the soup. Cover the soup and the reserved dice, separately, with plastic wrap and chill for several hours or overnight before serving.

You may serve the soup from a tureen, in individual soup plates, or for an elegant touch, in stemmed wine glasses. Garnish the servings with the reserved cucumber dice and the minced herb of you choice. Dill, coriander, or chives will each give the soup a different character.

Serves 4

Under refrigeration the soup keeps well for about a week, so we try to keep some on hand during hot weather.

Reprinted from Country Gourmet Cookbook by Sherrill and Gil Roth. Copyright ©1981, 1984 by Sherrill and Gil Roth. Reprinted by permission of Workman Publishing Company, Inc. All rights reserved.

washing produce,

dicing vegetables,

measuring dry ingredients,

measuring liquid ingredients,

peeling garlic,

mincing vegetables,

tossing ingredients,

whisking ingredients,

folding ingredients,

 

 

A bowl of red-eye and a hunk of cornbread...a cowpoke's dream. This particular recipe never won at the International Chili Cook-off in Terlingua, but it has my vote as K Cowboy's best effort yet.

Destarte Chili

2 pounds beef, 1/2 ground, 1/2 cubed

1 8-ounce can tomato sauce

2 cans water

1 1/2 tablespoons onion, minced

1/8 teaspoon garlic powder

7 tablespoons ground chile powder (chile ancho molido, if available)

1 tablespoon ground comino (cumin)

1 tablespoon ground oregano

1 teaspoon red cayenne pepper

1 teaspoon paprika

1 tablespoon salt

1 tablespoon masa, optional

Brown meat until just barely cooked. Add remaining ingredients and simmer at least two hours. Add masa to thicken, if necessary.

Serves 6

Try substituting pork for one-half the meat. Also good for venison or other game meats.

opening cans,

peeling an onion,

mincing vegetables,

measuring dry ingredients,

browning meat,

simmering ingredients,

 

 

There are as many variations of this recipe as there are cooks who have tried to make it. I particularly enjoy this one.

Gazpacho

4 cups tomato juice

1/2 cup finely minced onion

1 medium clove garlic, minced

1 medium bell pepper, minced

1 teaspoon honey (optional)

1 medium cucumber, peeled, seeded, minced

2 scallions, minced

juice of 1/2 lemon + 1 lime

2 tablespoons wine vinegar

1 teaspoon each: tarragon, basil

1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon cumin

1/4 cup freshly minced parsley

2 to 3 tablespoons olive oil

salt, black pepper, and cayenne-to taste

2 cups freshly diced tomatoes

Combine all ingredients. (optional: purée all or some) Chill until very cold.

Serves 4-6

The absolute key is a sharp knife and patience. You will want the smallest pieces of vegetable that you can get without crushing them. Don't give up and stick it all in the blender. Try serving this for your patio party in the dusk of a hot summer's day. Put it in chilled mugs with the tiniest dollop of sour cream and the tiniest sprig of fresh cilantro.

Reprinted with permission from Moosewood Cookbook by Mollie Katzen ©1992 by Ten Speed Press.

measuring liquid ingredients,

peeling an onion,

peeling garlic,

mincing vegetables,

washing produce,

coring and seeding peppers,

preparing cucumbers,

measuring dry ingredients,

peeling tomatoes,

 

 

This very thick, rich stew is a breakfast and brunch favorite in New Orleans. I make it with beef, rather than the more traditional veal, because beef is more readily available. After trimming, you should have a little more than three pounds of meat.

Grillades

(part of Mardi Gras Breakfast)

4 pounds lean, boneless beef chuck roast or steak cut about 1-inch thick; or boneless veal stew meat

3/4 teaspoon salt

3/4 teaspoon freshly-ground pepper

3/4 cup all-purpose flour

3/4 cup vegetable oil

1 cup chopped onion

1 cup diced celery

1 cup diced green bell pepper

1 cup sliced scallions

4 teaspoons minced fresh garlic (about 6 cloves)

1/2 teaspoon dried thyme leaves

1 28-ounce can tomatoes, crushed lightly with hands

1 13-to 14-ounce can beef broth

1/2 cup dry red wine

3 tablespoons tomato paste

2 Turkish bay leaves

Heat oven to 375 degrees. Trim fat from meat and cut meat into strips about 1/4-inch thick and 3-inches long, cutting across the grain where possible. Sprinkle meat with salt and pepper. Put flour on a sheet of wax paper. Toss meat in flour, a few pieces at a time, and place on another sheet of wax paper. Save reaming flour. Heat 1/4 cup oil in a large heavy skillet over high heat. Brown meat in small batches and put browned pieces in a bowl. Add more oil to skillet as needed. Heat 1/4 cup oil in a 6-to 8-quart rangetop-to-oven casserole over moderate heat. Add onion, celery, green pepper, scallions, and garlic. Cook about 10 minutes, stirring often, until vegetables are tender. Stir in thyme; cook 30 seconds. Reduce heat to low and stir in flour left over from coating meat; cook 3 to 4 minutes, stirring frequently. Add remaining ingredients and browned meat (including any juices). Stir well and bring to a boil. Boil 5 minutes, then cover and bake 1 hour and 10 to 20 minutes, or until meat is very tender. Discard bay leaves.

Serves 10 or more

Reprinted with permission from Breakfast with Friends by Elizabeth Alston ©1989 by Westport Publishing Group.

slicing meat,

Trimming meat,

measuring dry ingredients,

grinding pepper,

measuring liquid ingredients,

peeling an onion,

chopping vegetables,

peeling celery,

dicing vegetables,

coring and seeding peppers,

peeling a green onion,

peeling garlic,

mincing vegetables,

opening cans,

calibrating the oven,

dusting meat,

browning meat

sautéing ingredients,

boiling ingredients,

simmering ingredients,

setting the timer,

finding the spoon in the pot,

 

 

This simple potato and leek soup has an added deep, woodsy flavor.

Mushroom, Leek and Potato Soup

3 tablespoons butter

1 small red onion, cut into 1/2-inch squares

3 leeks, white parts only (8 ounces), sliced into 1/4-inch rounds or half rounds

1 pound potatoes, quartered and thinly sliced

salt

6 cups wild mushroom stock

1 tablespoon olive oil

8 to 12 ounces mushrooms, irregularly sliced

1/2 cup dry white wine

pepper

1/2 to 1 cup light or heavy cream (optional)

fresh herbs: parsley, chervil, tarragon, thyme, finely chopped, for garnish

Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a soup pot and add the onion and leeks. Cook them over high heat for several minutes, stirring frequently; then lower the heat and add the potatoes, 1 teaspoon salt, and 2 cups of the stock. Cover the pot and stew the vegetables over low heat for about 10 minutes. Heat the remaining tablespoon butter and olive oil in a wide skillet. Add the mushrooms and sauté them over high heat until they begin to release their juices, stirring as needed. Add 1/2 teaspoon salt and the wine, and cook until the wine is reduced and syrupy. Scrape the musrooms into the soup pot, and add the remaining 4 cups of the stock. Bring to a boil; then simmer slowly, covered, until the potatoes are completely soft, about 25 minutes. Taste the soup and season with more salt, if needed, and freshly ground black pepper. Add the cream, if using, and heat through. Serve the soup garnished with the fresh herbs.

Serves 4 to 6

From THE GREENS COOKBOOK by Deborah Madison and Edward Espe Brown. Copyright ©1987 by Edward Espe Brown and Deborah Madison. Used by permission of Bantam Books, a division of Bantam Doubleday Dell Publishing Group, Inc.

measuring butter,

peeling an onion,

chopping vegetables,

preparing leeks,

slicing vegetables,

making a soup stock,

measuring liquiding ingredients,

quartering potatoes,

setting the timer,

 

A longtime favorite of visitors to the French Market in New Orleans, nine-bean soup never really seems to contain exactly nine beans. Originally, one would include salt pork or ham hocks in place of the ham that appears here. This version seems a little healthier and lets all the beans' flavors come through to be recognized.

Nine-bean Soup

2 cups nine-bean soup mix (see below)

2 quarts water

1 pound lean sugar cured ham, cubed

1 large onion, chopped

1 clove garlic, minced

1/2 to 3/4 teaspoon salt

1 16-ounce can chopped tomatoes, undrained

1 10-ounce can tomatoes and green chilies, undrained and chopped

Sort and wash 2 cups of the bean mix. Place in a large pot with a lid. Cover with water 2 inches above the beans and soak overnight. Drain beans. Add 2 quarts fresh, cold water, cubed ham, chopped onion, minced garlic and salt. Cover and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer 1 1/2 hours or until beans are tender. Add remaining ingredients and simmer 30 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Makes 2 quarts

Nine-bean Soup Mix contains equal portions of dried yellow split peas, dried black beans, dried red beans, dried pinto beans, dried navy beans, dried Great Northern beans, red lentils, dried green split peas, dried black-eyed peas and barley pearls. This mix is a clever way to remember all your friends and co-workers during the holiday season without breaking the budget. It's the food gift that is a departure from the usual sweets and can be consumed long after the holidays when we are looking for something to get us back on the healthy track. I make one trip to the health food store where these beans are sold in bulk. I don't bother to weigh each item, but I make sure that i have equal amounts of each. Then I mix them in a trash bag and scoop out 2-cup portions into self-sealing plastic bags along with a copy of the recipe. With a minimum of effort and not very much money, I have created attractive gifts for dozens of my friends.

sorting and soaking beans,

measuring liquid ingredients,

cubing meat,

peeling an onion,

chopping vegetables,

peeling garlic,

mincing vegetables,

measuring dry ingredients,

opening cans,

simmering ingredients,

finding the spoon in the pot,

setting the timer,

 

 

Pozole is a favorite of my friends on both sides of the Mexico/Texas border. It is a hearty soup combining the lusty flavors of pork, chicken, peppers, onion, garlic and corn...everything Mexican.

Pozole Presidio Style

1 pound pozole

2 pig's feet, split

2 large onions, chopped

1 whole head garlic, cloves peeled and whole

3-4 cups chicken broth

1 whole chicken, cut into serving parts

1 pound pork, cubed

1 teaspoon ground oregano

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 10 ounce can green chiles, cut into strips

3 jalapeño chiles or crushed dried chili petins

salt and pepper to taste

Soak pozole overnight in 8-10 cups water. Add pigs feet, onions and garlic. Simmer 3 hours. Add hot chicken broth to maintain stock level. During final hour add chicken, pork, oregano, cumin, and chiles. Remove all bones and salt and pepper to taste.

Serves 10-12

Don't let the pig's feet put you off if you have never cooked with them. If they are not readily available at your market, ask your butcher to get them. It's worth the effort for that unforgettable flavor.

measuring dry ingredients,

peeling an onion,

chopping vegetables,

peeling garlic,

cubing meat,

adding water to soup,

opening cans,

finding the spoon in the pot

 

 

Traditionally, this soup wants a ham hock. We prefer the leaner, less salty flavor of a slab of ham from the deli.

Split Pea Soup

1 pound ham, cubed

1 pound dry split peas

8 carrots, peeled and sliced

1 onion, diced

1 teaspoon salt

fresh ground pepper to taste

10 cups water or broth

Sort and soak peas several hours. Put all ingredients into large pot. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat and cook until carrots are tender and peas are mushy. Stir often when peas begin to soften to prevent scorching. Cook a total of 1 1/2 hours.

Serves 8-10

You might also try the lusty Serrano ham from Spain.

sorting and soaking beans,

cubing meat,

washing produce,

peeling carrots and potatoes,

slicing vegetables

peeling an onion,

dicing vegetables,

measuring dry ingredients,

grinding pepper,

salt and pepper to taste,

boiling ingredients,

simmering ingredients,

finding the spoon in the pot,

setting the timer,

 

 

My best friend mizz lizzie showed me this quick and totally yummy soup two decades ago when we were not rich and in a hurry. We both still are.

Zucchini Soup

8 tender zucchini, sliced

2 cups chicken broth, homemade or from a can

salt and pepper to taste

1 cup cream

Cook zucchini in chicken broth until tender to the touch of a fork. Blend in blender with 1 1/2 cups of the broth, salt, pepper and cream. Return to pot and heat very slowly or serve cold.

Garnishes: Serve topped with dill weed and soda or oyster crackers to side.

Serves 4-6

Very friendly served warm and just as nice the next day in a cold lunch.

washing produce,

slicing vegetables,

measuring liquid ingredients,

using a blender,